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Design Dossier // Maria Black

Danish jewellery designer Maria Black is launching two new collections this fall – a fashion collection named Indochine and a fine jewellery collection named The Hunger. I sat down with Maria for a chat about The Hunger:

Why call it The Hunger?  

I”t’s the title of a vampire film from the 80’s with Susan Sarandon, David Bowie and Cathrine Deneuve. Lesbian sex scenes and passion all wrapped in the mystery of vampires and ancient rituals. I came across the film by accident because I was researching Deneuve for the new Fashion Collection Indochine.  She inadvertently became my muse for both collections.” 

What was your inspiration?  

“The inspiration came solely from the character played by Cathrine Deneuve.  I was truely fascinated by the way she was dressed as a leather clad vixen from the 80’s one scene and then straight into 40’s gear, but with such ease somehow retained the same allure and appeal. I wanted to fuse old with new and insinuated the fangs by the raised triangles. It really was a collection that unfolded in a matter of few days. Everything just came together.”

Which piece is your favourite?

“I think my favourite piece is probably the Catherine necklace, which was my adaptation of the classic T bar. In the classic version, it had a clock attached to the end of the chain…. I love the T bar, Im not sure I’m finished with it yet;)  I go through phases of favourites, but I always return to the simple and elegant. Jewellery is different than clothes, it says more about your personality, it tells a story about who you are, where you come from and where you are going. You can pretend with your clothes, not with your bling.”

The most important thing about jewellery design?

“- Is balance. There has to be a balance and natural grace to the piece. You might not know why you favour one more than the other, but you subconsciously know if something is ‘off’ when it comes to design. There are a million things to consider when designing, but to boil it down you are in essence living in a world of millimetres. Jewellers will know exactly what I’m talking about.”

Who do you admire?  

“I admire fierce and bold people. People who are true to whom they are and don’t give a shit about your opinion of them, who they love, where they live or what they wear.  And I admire kindness. Kindness is sexy and kindness above all is what makes us human.”

 The piece of jewellery you never take off?  

“My late aunts ring which was given to me by my grandmother. Admittedly I had to trade it for my gold ring with diamonds. Luckily she’s my biggest fan, but hell, that woman can bargain.”

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Maria Black The Hunger on Nouvelle.jpg
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